I am adding a few observations to Heidi’s. We did the following things of note:
The first was the happy chance discovery of one of Paris’ few surviving 19th century Brasseries, Bofinger, specializing in Alsatian cuisine. We had spent the morning wandering from our neighborhood adjacent to the Quai de Valmy, to the Place de la Republique, then Place des Voges, finally to Place de la Bastille when hunger and fatigue overtook us. We wandered past so many sidewalk cafes, all looking not very interesting or inviting, and then around a corner on a back street just immediately west of Place de la Bastille Bofinger appeared.
We were dressed in our ordinary touring clothes and upon entering felt a bit underdressed, but the intrepid Heidi approached the hostess, and we were whisked to a premier table under the Beaux Arts stained glass dome. The meal was sumptuous starting with a bottle of Champaigne and oysters. It was a wonderful lingering luncheon.
Upon leaving Bofiner we noticed an elegant salon across the street, and I encouraged Heidi to indulge in a high fashion Parisian experience. While she was being lavished with attention, I sat contentedly across the street and enjoyed a pipe, then a stroll around the quiet back streets. At the conclusion of her coiffure the maestro of Dessange Paris personally finished the last touches on her hair and makeup. Being fluent in French and polite and quietly excited to be in this exquisite salon earned goodwill all around.
We enjoyed the setting, food, and hospitality so much at Bofinger that we booked again for Sunday early dinner. This time we dressed and were again seated in a premier seat and with not a tourist in site except a table of German businessmen next to us. Because I had placed a glowing review about Bofinger after our first meal we were greeted like old friends. The management of Bofinger is under the care of an organization that holds several notable dining venues in Paris, and it is clear they are highly competent in both the authenticity of the experience and attention to hospitality. We followed dinner with a promenade the length of Boulevard Saint-Germain.
It was the best circumstance, we left Paris feeling it was too soon and will return again for five days in 2025.
